AI necromancer that thinks “skeleton” means a bony texture to the original shape, complete with a ribcage.

spicy kitten

If it looks like this, it’s a lynx.

When you ask early AI to generate a skeleton of any animal, there will almost always be a ribcage in the outline of the animal’s “torso”.

If you’re using xkb, try this guide. Of course, backup any system files before modifying them, and just to be sure, add a 2nd keyboard layout as backup and know how to switch between them to have a fallback if you corrupt the primary one.

There might be TUI or GUI tools too, probably way more convenient for a one-off change on a single PC.

I just changed one of the existing layouts. Very easy in any text editor, you just need to find the proper name or Unicode code for each function/character.

If non-English songs are allowed… https://feddit.org/comment/1871785

Why? It’s literally the default option

Then it’s not a tracking parameter of course.

Neum is actually in Herzegovina but whatever. It’s inside a bay that Croatia controls from both sides, and in fact has a bridge over. If B&H got naughty again, they could turn it into a lake just by dumping enough clay from the bridge.

What’s the joke?

That is very decoder-specific. The most common QR reader apps are the Camera app on iPhones and Google Lens for Android so you’ll want to target one of these (though Google Lens might be using cloud processing for that). There probably won’t be any exploits in the image processing part but you obviously can write arbitrary data (including ASCII control characters such as CR, LF, null) into the “data” part of the QR code, as the encoding mode and data length is stored in the first 4+(n*8) bits of where data would be instead of null byte termination. Normally, the data is then right-padded with repeating 0xEC11 (or not) and then error correction follows (number of bytes in the error-correction part is defined by the size and ECC mode indicated in another region).

It’s easier to take precautions though. You probably don’t have an insulated USB port or throwaway host device but handling QR codes safely just takes basic tech and skill.

Important advice:

• Don’t use apps that auto-open URLs in QR codes when pointed at!
• Make sure the app shows the full content of the QR code and lets you peruse it indefinitely before you open the link!
• Know the structure of URLs and common pitfalls!

Recommendations:

• Be extra suspicious if there is no URL printed next to the code, or if the printed URL is different.
• Use an open source reader app (most QR codes don’t contain secrets but it’s got permission to use either camera!) that does not resolve Punycode (Unicode in TLDs).
• Strip any tracking parameters you spot before following any URLs.
• Be careful if the QR code could have been easily tampered with (on a sticker over the original one, or on a plain sheet of paper inserted into a plastic wrap together with the rest)

I think today’s generation’s equivalent is free Wi-Fi networks. Kids without mobile data in an area without an established public network will connect to just about any open one unless the SSID includes “LaserJet” or similar.

Has been taken down. See archived copy

Has been taken down. See archived copy

Type in Google:
fitgirl-repacks.site

They’re GAMERS. They know what the URL bar is. And Google is likely to show ads, or even blacklist the site, resulting in fake copies at the top.

@kurcatovium@lemm.ee

It was advertised as “2 TB (64 GB Extended)” at a local clearance sale (not AliExpress), which was basically correct though I would prefer “64 GB but misprogrammed so everything can get corrupted at any time”. When buying it, I didn’t yet know if I could reprogram the chip but the low price was justified for the pretty aluminum case with a USB-C port and place for a custom PCB. I decided to buy it also to prevent another, less technical person from using it and losing their data. The store was getting rid of inventory for very cheap and would close soon so no more fake drives would be ordered.

Well, depends on how much you’re OK with some problems. I knowingly bought a “2 TB (64 GB Extended)” flash drive, tested its sectors and reprogrammed it to 32-in-64-GB for wear leveling and bad sector avoidance because it was still a cheap 32GB USB drive. I made sure to label it for “non-critical use” such as movies.

As for camping lanterns, ones charged from mains might have a nasty habit of shocking their users. (The YouTube channel contains a huge number of cheap Chinese charger teardowns and most don’t meet safety criteria. Usually, there is just 1 or 2 layers of thin tape between mains and the output you can touch.)

Sometimes, counterfeits or unknown brands are so similar to the real deal that it barely matters. I’d say that basic electronics (alarm clocks, kitchen scales, calculators, SD security cams) or even RAM is fine. With appropriate expectations, parts like video or USB cables, hubs etc., small home improvement items (hooks, screws) are fine too. Avoid categories where a lot of items have fake specs (storage devices, LED bulbs, anything that claims a runtime on a Li-Ion battery). Power electronics (especially if using mains or non-tiny Li-Ion batteries) can be downright dangerous. For novelty items and electronics modules, it’s usually easy to find text or video reviews on other websites because they’re easy to uniquely describe. Remember to consider ways in which the product can be utter crap despite high reviews citing good first impressions; it also helps to have practical knowledge of testing the properties of the items and fixing common issues.

It’s a minix clone, so… mimix?